Tale of Two Cities

During our recent visit to Fez we were lucky enough to be invited into many Fassi homes. I will explain more about the hospitality shown to us in another upcoming post - but for now I'd like to explain the two different events we attended on consecutive nights.

The first night (Friday) was the opening of a massive new place in the medina - Riad Alkantara, shortly to become one of the biggest hotels in the medina, eclipsing the opulence of Riad Fez. You decide. Needless to say the entertainment was lavish set in the huge courtyard (apparently this part was only a third of the premises). The band of Gnawa musicians were garbed out in the best finery and the cream of Fassi society were present along with a healthy dose of expats headed by Louis Da Fez and Cafe Mike.

The hosts appeared humble and friendly despite their apparent wealth and we were all made to feel very welcome.

We dragged ourselves away at around 1am with the sound of the Gnawa horns (can someone let us know the proper names for these instruments) ringing in our ears. Sadly I didn't take my camera along so have no images of the proceedings.

The second night was very different. A neighbour of ours from our derb (street), Sayeed stopped us outside his restaurant near Boujloud (as he normally does to hassle us to eat there). Instead of an invitation to dine he told us to go his house at 11pm as he has some Gnawa musicians coming round.

In for a penny, we thought. Our friend Karin was on baby sitting duties so we took the rare opportunity to get out together. We entered the house (the door seems to be open from 8am to the early hours every day), and found nothing going on except Sayeed's family watching a large telly.

We were welcomed and shown through to the adjoining salon, given mint tea and some nibbles. And there we sat, wondering if this was the right house, the right nigh or were victims of some elaborate prank!




After an hour or so Said rolled in with with several other guests and offered us more drinks and olives. Sadly Jo had to leave at this stage as our small babies wake up when there's a baby sitter present. So Karin came back to the house bearing walnuts. More guests arrived including Thami from the now famous Thami's Restaurant, looking somewhat worse for wear after some prior celebrations. More food and drink arrived with more guests.

I asked where the musicians were on a number of occasions and was told they were at another house and would be here soon.

More food and drink.

Eventually there was a bustle of excitement around 2am and 4 musicians were ushered in. We were asked to move from our seats as Sayeed had to get the chicken from the cupboard. A couple of thoughts ran through mind such as 'he's got another dish of chicken, but why in the cupboard'. In fact the chicken was alive and was about to be dispatched before the music started.




The charcoal brazier was brought in from the entrance, eye stinging incense burned and the chicken duly murdered before the music began. Everyone leaped to their feet and one guy immediately went off into a trance and had to helped to the next salon to be calmed down.

The Gnawa rhythm flowed for hours, rising and falling similar to a DJ club set. Various family members and friends took turns to seriously get down and join in chanting, at one point, one of the women was dancing around waving a large knife around. I'm hoping the blood on it came from the chicken!

We decided we'd leave at 3am as I was inevitably going to get jumped on by small children in bed at 6am the next morning.

"Sayeed, we have to leave... "

"No, you sit down".

Fair enough, the drinks were flowing.

We finally got away at 4am. For me it was an amazing experience, similar to the kind of party we have with friends in the UK with everybody dancing all night and getting rowdy at someones house. And being welcomed in as a neighbour was good and made Fez feel more like home. It's just a shame we can't live there. Yet.