Dar Mystere, a house in Fez

Article in The Guardian

2008-10-12T22:02:00.008+01:00

Read the full article here from Guardian Unlimited - http://www.guardian.co.uk/travel/2008/oct/11/morocco-shoppingtrips?page=all

Photograph: Simon Grosset

Heart Stopper!

2008-08-02T12:27:00.008+01:00

A few weeks ago I got up to make a cuppa at about 7am (in the UK, not in Fez) and thought I'd check my emails as the computer was still on. Before anyone berates me for wasting electricity, it's a laptop with a sleep mode that uses no power but will instantly spring into life at the touch of a key.

Among the usual offers to enlarge parts of my anatomy and meet willing Russian and Thai ladies, was one from my friend Alami in Fez. The email was titled 'Big problem in your dar'. At the time our friend Pippa was staying there (one of the only people to make use of our house since it's completion) so, intrigued as to what the big problem was, I read on as the kettle boiled.

When we were having the house renovated we decided to have a gas fired water heater mounted outside on the terrace. This seemed a logical option as it was economical and would be sufficient for the hot water requirements of a small house. One worry was the possibility of a gas explosion, although we also have a gas cooker in the kitchen, as do most Moroccan houses.

Our gas bottles sat out the summer of 2007 in the full sun with no problems, and provided steaming hot water during winter visits to the house. We also had a bamboo cover made for the heater to improve the aesthetics.

So, the email started 'I dont knoe where to start, the gaz has explode'.

The first thing I imagined was the top floor of Dar Mystere atomised, smouldering and scattered around our part of the Tarayana area of the Medina. Pippa would be in hospital. Needless t say my early morning cup of tea was less enjoyable than I had hoped. It is pretty rare for one of the gas cylinders to go off, but not unheard of, and the devastation they can wreak is enormous.

I had been trying to work out why Skype wasn't working on my computer for a couple of weeks. I found I was able to get it sorted out quite quickly all of a sudden.

When I finally got through to Alami my first question was is anybody hurt. There was nobody and it turned out there was relatively little damage compared to what I had imagined. The gas had not exploded as such, but the heater had malfunctioned, setting fire to the bamboo cover (probably not a good idea in the first place). The heater was knackered, the wall was scorched, and part of the plastic on the halqa cover was melted so the cover will not work until a repair is effected.

The charred and knackered gas water heater.

The melted halqa cover.

The melted halqa cover - another view.

We figured it was time to change to an electric heater. So now there's a nice, big, safe, white cylinder in the kitchen/utility room on the terrace above the washing machine - which just seems to make so much sense.

Not the most interesting image you've ever seen on blog I reckon.

This picture will give you an idea of what I was imagining when I first read the email. This is actually a house on the corner of Rue de la Poste close to the post office on Place Batha that seems to have collapsed.

Flying the Flag

2008-06-02T15:26:00.011+01:00

Whilst enjoying an afternoon beverage in my local award winning public house, the Fat Cat (look it up, it's got an award for being the best pub in the UK for various reasons- twice!), I noticed on their 'Around the World in 80 Beers' menu that I am now able to sup a little piece of Morocco in the form of a bottle of Flag Speciale.

Whilst much of the array of fine brews on sale in the Fat Cat surpass Flag in taste and quality, when in Fez it's my tipple of choice form the racks at Marjane.

So good old Fat Cat... and Flag breweries of Morocco.

No news is...

2008-06-02T15:06:00.016+01:00

The posts on this blog site have been few and far between recently. This is partly due to our house now in fit state to live in so there's nothing much to report. There are obviously things to change in the future, such as how to improve the windowless and semi subterrainean downstairs bathroom. Buying up the adjacent little house that sits above our bathroom/kitchen would be an improvement. We could then open up the ceilings and get some natural light in there. A unlikely proposition unless we're lucky on the Lottery.

The ironic thing, and this was always going to be the case, is that we can't stay there for long periods. Due to our heavy work commitments and family/school needs in the UK, we won't be attempting to run it as a business - lucrative as this might be. So at present it can remain 'in limbo', although at the moment our friend Pippa is staying there while she checks on and progresses the work on her place buried down in R'Cif/Gzira locality.

So having exhausted shots of the house, here are some images from our recent visit back in March/April. Looking back at all the snaps we took, most of them are of ours, and friends of our children. That's only natural I suppose.

Frankie feeds Lola camel burger at Cafe Clock

Not sure what's happening here

Or here.

Life on Taryana Sghira

Is the waiter at La Noria looking on fondly at the children
or checking his watch and hoping we'll soon stop
bothering him and his cats?

Miniature bike or giant baby

Fez in Springtime

2008-04-10T21:10:00.007+01:00

Having been back from Fez for a week now, we can say that the trip there and back on two Ryanair flights (each way) is not as bad as some things. Take our 3 children out of the equation and it would almost be relaxing. A tip for would-be Stansted-Girona-Fez travellers, check your bag weight, they seem to have a different type of 15 kilos in Spain.

It was good to get in our house for the first time without having to rush out and buy something straight away, like a bed or a fridge. Everything was ready and the new cover over the roof kept the torrential rain out out the central patio. Another tip - take a few warm clothes this time of year, we spent the first few evening wearing all of our clothes at once.

This is the time to get there though, anything that's going to be green is green now, as well as swathes of wild flowers around the countryside outside the city, the Ville Nouvelle was, and probably still is bristling with geraniums and other plants that look nice but I don't know their names. We nearly got to ride the tourist train, but the driver was asleep spread over two sets in the back. Obvious child safety fears aside, the prospect of swerving around the various intersections dodging kamikaze petit taxis has a certain appeal.

We had some vague plans to visit Lionel in Meknes and and to travel out to see Fred and Marie's country house, but getting out of the house for a leisurely stroll around the Mellah was a challenge in itself. So sorry Lionel, sorry Fred and Marie. We'll try and get out next time, although next time will be the height of summer, so moving around could be even more off the agenda.

Mehedi, Frankie and Ashraf, life in the derb

Our son Frankie had the usual raucous time, with most of the local kids knocking on the door all the time... "Fronkie joué?". He's now able to show his friends back here his early attempts at Arab flips and walking up walls.

It was good to catch up with Louis and his latest top secret schemes, and get to check out our old friend Pippa's house deep down in the medina, which is now under renovation.

Easyjet to Fez?!??!

2008-03-11T21:16:00.003Z

We have recently received a comment on a post regarding direct UK flights to Fez. John (anonymous - no email address given) had spent 30 minutes hassling Easyjet and apparently was told the Gatwick route, previously serviced by GB Airways, now part of Easyjet, will be reinstated in April.

Lets hope this is confirmed by the big orange bird carrier soon.

Please let us know if anyone else has heard this rumour.

Image from www.freedigitalphotos.net

48 Hours in Fez

2008-01-25T21:18:00.002Z

Whilst trying to get any info on possible new direct flights to Fez I came across this short film with Simon Calder made by BA and the Independent Traveller. It's handy little peek at what's in store for those considering a visit to Fez (albeit presented by a rather enthusistic Mr Calder), and a reminder of what we're missing over here during the long British winter.

And the bit about only 3 hours direct from the UK? Hah!

That's Just Typical!

2008-01-25T20:23:00.002Z

We've spent the last two years searching for a house and renovating it, so that we, and our friends, plus a few guests, could enjoy the unique charm of Fez... only to be scuppered by the fickle budget airlines.

Since our house has been properly habitable, cover over the halqa (hole in the roof), curtains, kitchen, cushions, all that - there's no direct flights to Fez from the UK. GB Airways are still flying until 29 March although nobody seems to be able to make a booking, and when Easyjet take over the route is to be axed.

Marrakesh is heavily served from the UK and apparently the big orange bird is flying to Casablanca and Tangiers later in the year. At present both of these cities are a good 4-5 hours train ride to Fez and Marrakesh is 8-9 hours. We've done that journey with one child, doing it with three would require sedation... us, not them.

If things stay the same, then perhaps Fez will retain some exclusivity and maintain it's character... although only as far as British visitors are concerned. There are regular European flights from Frankfurt, Paris, Girona, Marseilles and Lyon.

So, all you bilingual Europeans, here's a fine place to stay just a short stroll from the Bab Boujloud in the midst of the medina action, yet untoubled by passing traffic and pedestrians.

And here's some more pictures from December.

Flights from London to Fez

2008-01-05T22:24:00.001Z

I was about to do a post about the (lack of) direct flights from London to Fez, when I noticed the inactive-of-late blog, The View From Fez, had the same idea.

Ryanair has cancelled (hopefully temporarily) their service from London-Luton as of last November. GB Airways (currently part of British Airways but soon to be owned by Easyjet) are flying to Fez until 29 March 2008, although it seems Easyjet have no plans to continue this route when they take over.

The View From Fez mentions the Royal Air Maroc service which costs around £200.

I have been looking at getting to Fez with the family at Easter and found the cheapest and quickest way would still be Ryanair from London-Stansted to Barcelona (Girona), and then on to Fez, again on Ryanair. Depending on your travelling dates, this can be done with a short 2-4 hour stop in Girona.

Considering the usual two stage trip with Royal Air Maroc from London-Heathrow via Casablanca to Fez, the Ryanair option seems good value as the prices can be around £120 per person. There is also another Ryanair option of taking the London-Stansted/Frankfurt/Fez route, although this has a slightly longer travel time and flight from Fez to Frankfurt arrive late at arounf 11pm so a hotel would be needed for overnight.

Lets hope direct flights are resumed after the end of March. If anyone has information regarding this , please get in touch.

Reluctant Sheep

2007-12-21T10:20:00.000Z

Fez was full of reluctant sheep, and as write this through a mind clouded by one or two too many Guinesses last night on the works Christmas drink-up, those same sheep are getting dispatched to meet Allah. For today is Eid Al Adha or the Feast of Sacrifice.

There were two types sheep in the medina. Happy sheep and suspicious sheep. The happy sheep beamed as they were lead around, or pushed in carrossas, whilst being admired and having their testicles fondled by passers-by. These sheep had no incling of what Friday (today) would have in store for them.

The others looked decidedly shifty, sensing all was not well. I wonder which ones taste best.

The 4 days I have just spent in Fez were a blur of fixtures, fittings and furnishings. The object was to get the place ready for visitors and required a herculean effort to cram it all in. Some 12 hour days with no (mint) tea breaks and no time for sheep appreciating did the trick. Although I think I might have pulled a muscle in my back moving the steel step ladder up and down the stairs.

Although there are more jobs to do such as cleaning and oiling all the wood, this is a job for the guardian, Abdullah as well as cleaning the lovely new glass in the the lovely windows.

Here are some pictures of the finished article, it's just a shame that I'm in Norwich in the UK. But of course, anyone who would like to stay needs to get an email to us, info@house-fez.com

The patio with various lighting options

The patio with obligatory bowl of seasonal fruit

Pristine plasterwork

The patio from the balcony

The red salon with some of the 40 cushions and sumptuous rugs

The window in the Grande Chambre

The Grande Chambre

The en-suite for the Grande Chambre

The Blue Chambre

The Orange Chambre

Come a Long Way

2007-12-07T13:35:00.000Z

With nearly all the jobs done in the house I can finally think about setting up lighting and furniture when I visit next week. The walls are looking crisp and white and the wood will be oiled and the glass in the windows. Just a few final tweaks and more plants of course. Any potential guests who fancy a stay in a traditional house 3 minutes from Bab Boujloud in a quiet cul-de-sac an get in touch email at info@house-fez.com

The renovation has been going on for over a year now and the place has been been transformed. I sure if our jobs had permitted us to be there for much more of the time we could have been cracking the whip more often and got the job done in half the time. But then getting the job done is half the fun!

Top Tip

2007-11-26T20:45:00.000Z

Latest image of Dar Mystere shows the sliding halqa cover going on, just in time to keep the rain out. During our summer visits the big hole in the roof was no problem, except for the occasional sparrow grabbing a meal from the table. But we have to consider future guests and the torrential outbursts that can occur during the winter.

This structure will be covered in clear 'flexiglass' I am told so will still let all the usual light in for plants on the patio.

Sideboard Wanted

2007-11-14T20:30:00.000Z

We are after a nice sideboard for Dar Mystere to keep our plates and stuff in and not our beer as that cheeky Cockney duo Chaz & Dave sang of in "Got My Beer in the Sideboard Here".

As we're based in the UK most of the time, visits to Fez are fairly frantic especially when we have the kids in tow. Last time there was at the end of Ramadan so the medina was a bit of a ghost town at times and we couldn't achieve all we had set out to do.

So the next visit in December has a fully organised schedule of hole drilling, plant buying/planting and lots of other stuff that I would have to consult my list about if I was to remember them all. I don't envisage a great deal of time trawling the medina or the mellah for a nice piece - similar in size (approx 1.5 - 1.8m long), but not necessarily in style to the image here.

Unfortunately there's nothing more I'd like than to spend a few days trawling for a sideboard, but it reality it won't happen.

So if anyone out there (in Fez that is, or the environs) has or knows someone who's selling what we want, get in touch. The dirhams are waiting... djvodka@ntlworld.com

Spot the Difference

2007-10-19T21:47:00.001+01:00

Some before and after photos of Dar Mystere, the 'befores' are from November 2006 prior to any renovation work, and the 'afters' are from earlier this week.

There's still a small amount of work to do before the house is ready for guests - a retractable halqa cover (to keep the rain out of the centre of the house), a new back door although we are hoping the original can be saved. The finishing touches, such as sumptuous drapes and huge brass lamps will be done in December along with as many plants as we can get our hands on.

There are 3 double bedrooms, one with en suite with another bathroom on the ground floor. There's a simple kitchen on the ground floor with hob and large fridge freezer. On the terrace there is another kitchen with a washing machine and another small fridge (eventually).

The main terrace area is secluded with another higher area above the terrace kitchen for views to the Tombs of the Merenides and Mount Zalah.

Dar Mystere is 3 minutes walk from the hustle and bustle of Bab Boujloud (the Blue Gate), but is set back on a cul-de-sac so is very quiet at night.

Anyone who's interested in staying Dar Mystere from early next year can get in touch by email djvodka@ntlworld.com.

The main terrace area

Up to the top terrace

Store room that became an en suite

Terrace bedroom - terracotta room

When I was a lad

2007-09-26T21:19:00.000+01:00

Footy in the derb

A great benefit for our son, Frankie of being in Fez is the fact that he can actually play outside the front door in street, or derb. Taryana Sghira is a cul-de-sac or dead end, so there's little passing traffic (and certainly no motor traffic) except the occasional donkey train.

Where we live in the UK is traffic heavy, and outside our gate the road is a rat run with cars and vans nipping from one main road to another. So it's a real change to play football outside the house, and as soon as we, or just Frankie gets out there he's joined by either a neighbouring adult keeping an eye on him, or a bunch of the local kids who've taken him to heart.

So far they've taught him to squash cockroaches, pester the cats, molest the already overburdened donkeys and ride shotgun on various bikes. All of which he's revelled in and become quite good at. He also gets to play rough as most of the boys are bigger than him and they find it amusing to play fight and let him win.

Brahim, Frankie and Oubed

Growing up in the UK 40 years was different to now, back then you could play in the street with your mates. There didn't seem to be the dangers from rubbish drivers and dodgy old blokes, although we did have our fair share of weirdos back then.

So as well as a healthy exposure to another culture, he's getting some social interaction not afforded to him in the UK.

Can't be bad.

Tissage Berbere

2007-09-20T09:09:00.000+01:00

Just a little plug for our friend Koko's shop in Fez. As he, and his family been such a great help, it only seems right that we recommend his shop in our blog.

So if you're in Fez and want any kind souvenir, head down on Talaa Sghira almost as far as where it meets Talaa Kbira. On your right you will pass Tissage Berbere.

The full address is;

Kissariat 36 Zkak Lahjer Magasin,
40 Talaa Sghira
Fes Medina.

It's opposite the Lhassania school where you'll generally hear children singing as you pass and probably be invited in to make a donation.

Koko on the left with Louis Da Fez, just good friends.

Fabric, Koko and welder from hell!

2007-09-17T21:03:00.000+01:00

Another part of the previous mission to Fez was to get the 'soft furnishings' in order. This meant going out with Koko to and old school friend of his who sells fabric. I was initially planning on getting something from one of the swish places I'd looked at in the Ville Nouvelle. But the eventual place of purchase was much more interesting. Tucked away in the Bab Guissa area of the medina, this sprawling 'shop' consisted of three large, old, and rather dilapidated dars, seemingly held together by centuries of goodwill, beautifully illuminated by... yes, strip lights.

Nothing appeared to be organised, and indeed, wasn't. When I said I wanted something in red and gold, teeth were sucked and the proprietor (who's name escapes me, but was an unusual one) shrugged. A few ferocious sounding orders were dispatched to the assistant who leaped from his mid-day slumber on a pile of calico and a huge roll of red and gold cloth appeared. The same happened for the blue and gold. I think I may have bought too much, but any excess will be turned into extra cushions. And you can't have too many cushions.

During the next trip I'll be drilling my first holes in a Moroccan wall putting up the poles for the curtains... now, where were those electrical ducts again?

This second image is of two happy chaps who came to the dar to reinforce the massive heavy table that we have. I got them to weld two extra round bars at the ends to minimise the wobbly effect that sets in due to the enormous weight.

The welder looked like it was saved from the middle ages. The head man found our electricity circuit board and bypassed the fuse with a length of copper. They proceeded to cut lengths of steel and weld them with only beach wear (flip flops and sunglasses) for protection.
Job done though.

Twin Town

2007-08-31T12:06:00.000+01:00

One of the reasons our recent stay in Fez was less than relaxing at times (apart from running around buying taps, bidets and acres of fabric) was our 1 year old twin girls, Lola and Rosa.

After two visits of the family en mass, we have discovered that there there are two more sets of twins living locally and another belonging to our friend Koko (or Driss).

Mustapha and Said are the two guys who have a leather workshop next to our house where they make hand made shoes. They have been a great help when we've been there keeping an eye on our son Frankie during his many football sessions in the street, as well as paying our water and electricity bills while we're away.

Further up the street are two young girls around 3 years old who's names I can't remember, but who frequently visited the house with the other dozen or so kids from the area.

Koko's twin daughters, Zeenab and Kenza helped out with us at the house and couldn't get enough of Lola and Rosa along with their younger sister Habla. The image above is an excellent shot taken by Jo of the 4 of them on the doorstep along with the neighbour's cat which got in a few scrapes while we were there. Click on the image to view bigger.

Shaping Up At Last

2007-08-29T11:14:00.000+01:00

Now back in England watching the rain lash the children trying to play football and put off all thoughts of the impending return to school next week, it's hard to imagine the sweat running down my back as I trundled up and down the stairs getting all the personal belongings back in the store room before our departure.

I have a souvenir or that store room on the top of my head. The doorway is about 1.4m high. At least twice each visit I manage to bang my head. The last time was a cracker and I still have the dull throb to remind me.

The Dar is now looking good with most of the work finished, except parts of the kitchen and some steps up to the small top terrace. But these will be underway shortly.

The crucial work now is cleaning all the paint and plaster from the zellij and wood prior to final oiling. I did some cleaning myself while I was there ( in the rare moments when all 3 children were asleep) to get an idea of what the finished place would look like and to give our guardian, who will be undertaking this work as part of his guardian duties, an idea of what is required.

These images give an idea of how things are progressing.

The Brown Salon with recently exposed zellij ready for cleaning

The Red Salon with essential iPod dock

The view from the Red Salon

The door to the terrace

The entrance hall from the Brown Salon

So farewell then, Cat in Rabat

2007-08-14T19:06:00.000+01:00

The Cat in Rabat is putting the mouse down (temporarily we hope) after a highly amusing and well observed series of "snarky musings". We've enjoyed many postings from the anonymouse [sic] blogstress, some that might considered close to the bone by the Moroccan authorities, were they to be snooping.

Truly entertaining. Let hope the snarking continues in Madrid.

Slow, but steady progress

2007-08-13T15:07:00.000+01:00

The old blog has been a bit stale of late I know. Partly due to that hectic home life and work schedule, partly because things are moving slowly in the house at present.

The first part of a house renovation sees major changes going on quite rapidly, usually alarmingly so with all hell seeming to get let loose in your lovely new purchase. Flying plaster, smashed tiles and general debris dropping from precariously perched workers on the flimsiest of scaffolding systems.

When the job gets to the stages where finishing gets underway, it seems to go on for ever. This is the part of the job where it would be good to be around to keep an eye on all the work daily, but the nature of our life in the UK doesn't allow for that.

So, rather than get too anxious about the finer details, we have had to leave a lot of the decisions to our man there. This will no doubt throw up a lot of weird and wonderful solutions to various problems that we personally wouldn't have sanctioned had we been present. But hey!, if we really don't like it, we can change it.

So far though most things have been fine, at the end of the day we are not restoring the place back to what was there many centuries ago, as the house is only about 100 years old, and part of it seems to be newer than that.

What we are trying to achieve is a place that feels like you belong there as you walk in. It's somewhere built to the traditional style footprint, easily accessible from the Blue Gate (Bab Boujloud) and in a quiet location. On our last visit when the house was far from finished, that was certainly the case, and friends that stayed had that impression too.

On this next visit we're hoping to inch the completion a bit closer, and won't have to pack all the furniture away when leave again.

These images don't show much of interest to the non-dar renovator. The one above shows some old zellij which had been covered in a concrete slab previously.

This is the colour we're having a small salon painted, all blue with blue furniture. The way I'm imagining it in my head seems fine. The reality may be different.

This plaster arch had to be done again as last time it had been rushed before our visit and just wasn't symmetrical.

Hopefully when we return to the UK we'll be able to start pointing friends and family in the direction on Dar Mystere.

Blurry View, But Decent Tune

2007-07-08T20:37:00.000+01:00

A couple of months ago, just before we were heading out to Fez with the family and friends, a new blog appeared on the radar, or blogosphere. Under the heading 'The Fake Blurry View Of Fez' it seemed to question the validity of the interest and appreciation from western expats and outsiders of the ancient architectural and artistic qualities of the old city. Also it seemed to question the interest in the old styles of music when there is so much new music being produced by new young artists. And why not, there is much more to Fez and Morocco than crumbling medinas and gnawa music. The problem lies with the western attitude to what we call 'heritage'. In the UK we spend a great deal of time and money preserving old buildings and traditions for future generations. We see no problem with this, we also encourage new music and art, as well as modern architecture to sit alongside the 'old stuff'.

The good thing about 'The Fake Blurry View Of Fez' was that it caused a debate amongst the Fassi and Moroccan bloggers plus it has been showcasing a 'Video of the Week' which has usually been a Moroccan music video.

Now, we were in Fez during the Sacred Music Festival, which was lively and vibrant-the gigs at Dar Tazi (the free ones) were excellent, apart from what seemed on one occasion a local family being hassled by security for blatantly enjoying themselves while westerners were left alone.

What was missing from the whole line-up was something a bit more 'having-it', something modern. I'm no great expert on what is and isn't popular and respected by the youth of Morocco, but I'm pretty sure they weren't represented by the festival. We were looking forward to the London Community Gospel Choir, but realistically, it was no more than cabaret. Our 3 year old son enjoyed some of it (the Bob Marley numbers), but it was hardly cutting edge, and barely gospel music.

So it's refreshing to listen to the current recommendation from The Fake Blurry View Of Fez. Check it out here. Maybe the Sacred Music Festival organisers can get this lot on Boujloud Square next year. And if not, why not?

Forgive our ignorance, but can someone give us more info on this band. Not being French, Arabic or Darija speakers, we have no idea about the lyrics, but after DJing for 15 years I know it will rock the dance floor.

Friends, Family & Fez

2007-07-07T09:58:00.000+01:00

Haven't been inspired to post any blogs recently. Something to do with the climate in the UK. We are generally considered to be obsessed with the weather as a nation. Judging by how things have been this year-quite rightly so. There has never been so much rain in England since the whole of the northern hemisphere was a swamp and most of the creatures had webbed feet. Webbed feet (and hands) are now coming back into fashion in parts of these isles.

And the temperature. There has barely been a day where the mercury has popped its head above the 20C mark-THIS IS JULY FOR F***S SAKE.

So that's my excuse for getting lethargic on the blog front.

I'm thinking back to warmer times a few weeks ago when we were still in Fez... Ah! the sunshine, the smells, the funny red mould on wet plaster, the NO RAIN.

While we were there we introduced several friends to the delights of Morocco. All went away vowing to return. Here's a few prime shots of our time there.

We'll be back over there in August with the kids again hopefully setting the place up permanently. Last time when we left we had to pack all the furniture away in the large bedroom as there was still some finishing work to complete.

This time, inshallah, we can get it set up ready for family and friends to use.

This sheep, or probably ram tied up one morning, no doubt waiting to meet is maker, when we went out to get bread was constantly having his testicles felt by passing gentlemen. Why was that? Can someone explain. Does the size of the testicles have some bearing of the quality of the offering-if indeed that was what he was?

Anyway, since I began writing this post this morning, it's been a rather pleasant day in Norwich UK, just the one heavy shower.

Cats in Fez Medina

2007-06-15T19:54:00.000+01:00

On the subject of the Fez pussies... check this fella out!

Snapped recently on an early morning bread run on Talaa Kbira.

Tale of Two Cities

2007-06-15T10:52:00.000+01:00

During our recent visit to Fez we were lucky enough to be invited into many Fassi homes. I will explain more about the hospitality shown to us in another upcoming post - but for now I'd like to explain the two different events we attended on consecutive nights.

The first night (Friday) was the opening of a massive new place in the medina - Riad Alkantara, shortly to become one of the biggest hotels in the medina, eclipsing the opulence of Riad Fez. You decide. Needless to say the entertainment was lavish set in the huge courtyard (apparently this part was only a third of the premises). The band of Gnawa musicians were garbed out in the best finery and the cream of Fassi society were present along with a healthy dose of expats headed by Louis Da Fez and Cafe Mike.

The hosts appeared humble and friendly despite their apparent wealth and we were all made to feel very welcome.

We dragged ourselves away at around 1am with the sound of the Gnawa horns (can someone let us know the proper names for these instruments) ringing in our ears. Sadly I didn't take my camera along so have no images of the proceedings.

The second night was very different. A neighbour of ours from our derb (street), Sayeed stopped us outside his restaurant near Boujloud (as he normally does to hassle us to eat there). Instead of an invitation to dine he told us to go his house at 11pm as he has some Gnawa musicians coming round.

In for a penny, we thought. Our friend Karin was on baby sitting duties so we took the rare opportunity to get out together. We entered the house (the door seems to be open from 8am to the early hours every day), and found nothing going on except Sayeed's family watching a large telly.

We were welcomed and shown through to the adjoining salon, given mint tea and some nibbles. And there we sat, wondering if this was the right house, the right nigh or were victims of some elaborate prank!

After an hour or so Said rolled in with with several other guests and offered us more drinks and olives. Sadly Jo had to leave at this stage as our small babies wake up when there's a baby sitter present. So Karin came back to the house bearing walnuts. More guests arrived including Thami from the now famous Thami's Restaurant, looking somewhat worse for wear after some prior celebrations. More food and drink arrived with more guests.

I asked where the musicians were on a number of occasions and was told they were at another house and would be here soon.

More food and drink.

Eventually there was a bustle of excitement around 2am and 4 musicians were ushered in. We were asked to move from our seats as Sayeed had to get the chicken from the cupboard. A couple of thoughts ran through mind such as 'he's got another dish of chicken, but why in the cupboard'. In fact the chicken was alive and was about to be dispatched before the music started.

The charcoal brazier was brought in from the entrance, eye stinging incense burned and the chicken duly murdered before the music began. Everyone leaped to their feet and one guy immediately went off into a trance and had to helped to the next salon to be calmed down.

The Gnawa rhythm flowed for hours, rising and falling similar to a DJ club set. Various family members and friends took turns to seriously get down and join in chanting, at one point, one of the women was dancing around waving a large knife around. I'm hoping the blood on it came from the chicken!

We decided we'd leave at 3am as I was inevitably going to get jumped on by small children in bed at 6am the next morning.

"Sayeed, we have to leave... "

"No, you sit down".

Fair enough, the drinks were flowing.

We finally got away at 4am. For me it was an amazing experience, similar to the kind of party we have with friends in the UK with everybody dancing all night and getting rowdy at someones house. And being welcomed in as a neighbour was good and made Fez feel more like home. It's just a shame we can't live there. Yet.